Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
